Peru Expedition – Departing from Huaraz to Quebrada Ishinca with the objective of gaining experience in high mountain expeditions. Climbing the snowy Ishinca and Urus.
The main goal.
The CAP – Clube Alpino Paulista. It is a mountaineering club and one of its reasons for existence is to promote coexistence in various types of climbing and also high mountain.
With this focus we decided to make an expedition to Huaraz, to climb the Urus and Ishinca.
The goal was to give experience and coexistence in high mountains, for those who did not.
This is the second time I went to Huaraz. Check the first time here.
The expedition.
This was an expedition where each one played a part, for the good of all. There was no team leader to rule so we work together.
In the first days we bought the groceries, equipment etc.
We met some people who run the Ishinca Refuge and set with them the transportation and some services like mules etc.
To acclimatize, we went to the Churup lagoon.
As we were in 15 people, we rented a van to Pitec, where we started the trail and they waited us to bring back to Huaraz.
Quebrada Ishinca.
The trail starting point for Quebrada Ishinca is situated in Huillac, 2 km after the small village of Collon, where you will find a small PNH (Huascaran National Park) office.
Quebrada Ishinca is one of the closest to Huaraz and its base camp you can climb two peaks of 5000 meters (Ishinca and Urus) and two of 6000 meters (Tocllaraju and Ranrapalca).
Ishinca and Urus are acclimatization mounts to prepare for the highest peaks of the Cordillera Blanca.
They are usually considered a peak of trekking more than a climbing, but the weather conditions can make this trekking far from a safe bet.
Nevado Ishinca.
Nevado Ishinca 5530 m, which means “snow covered mountain” – belonging to the extensive Chinchey Massif.
The mountain is located at the head of the Quebrada (valley) Ishinca.
Quebrada Ishica has a relatively easy access, only 1 day from Huaraz and the easy of reaching several mountains of the same base camp
Urus.
Urus has 5420 meters and several routes to the summit. The one considered the easiest is the Urus East.
The normal route will border the small glacier to an uncomplicated snow slope. Interest in this peak is due to its location with great views.
Ranrapalca, Tocllaraju and Oshapalca are mountain ranges above 6000 meters and well technical.
The beginning of the expedition.
After a few days, we were finally ready to begin the expedition.
We loaded the bus with everything, we had prepared, and headed to Huillac, where the trail begins for the Quebrada Ishinca.
As soon as we arrived, we were hitting the paperwork with the HNP office (Huascaran National Park).
We put all the equipment on the mules and started the trail.
Trail is very smooth, even climbing. Of course it has the altitude, but it is a very quiet walk.
We were with many people and some had more difficulties due to altitude.
Me and a few others went ahead to start the camp set up, because it was already getting cold.
Acclimatization and rest
For our acclimatization we first descended the trail back halfway and headed back to the camp.
The next day climbing the trail to the Ishinca up near the glacier and back.
We also had a few days of rest
The other day was to rest and a walk to better acclimate.
Unfortunately some people were very weak and they were resting in the camp.
Me and another group went to try to reach the summit of Ishinca.
Attempt to Ishinca summit.
We decided that we would try the summit from base-camp and not use the shelter closest to the glacier.
We got up at 2 o’clock , had coffee and started walking at 3 o’clock.
The first part is very strong and then goes up more slowly.
At 7:00 AM, we arrived at the base of the glacier. We put the ice equipment and started the climb.
We had some difficulty with the group, which made the climb very long and we arrived at the base of the summit and waited for those who were behind.
After some time they arrived and some coversation so made some changes of the participants and a group would return.
I, Wagner, Yoshimi and Vandeira head to summit.
We had varis difficulties with the rhythm of climb, but we managed to reach the summit but it was very late.
We stayed only a few minutes and we had to get down already with the ice melting very quickly.
It was a very stressful descent, but everything went well and we got very tired better at the base camp.
First quitting on the expedition.
Some people were very ill and decided to abort the expedition and leave.
Attempt toUrus summit.
We continued the expedition and left for the Urus at 4:00 am. I was not very well, but I decided to give it a try.
The ascent of the Urus is very ingrime and I suffered a lot. Arriving at the base of the glacier, I was very tired so I decided not to continue and wait for those who would go up.
I waited and rested a few hours. When I could see the team coming down then I decided to start my descent very slowly.
I arrived at the base camp and after 2 hours the team that made the Urus summit arrived.
Some people had gotten worse and decided to come back a few days before the expedition was over.
We rest for two more days, dismantled the camp and returned to Huaraz.
Each had its schedule of commitments and flights so we said goodbye in Huaraz.
Glacier Pastoruri
As I had a few more days I decided to go to Pastoruri glacier.
The glacier is within the Huascarán National Park, at a distance of approximately 70 km from the center of Huaráz, and It is at altitude of 5000 meters above sea level.
The full tour takes around 7 hours, with a few stops on the way.
Basically, your arrive by car at a trail, which looks more like a road.
It is only 1.5 km and you arrive at the Glacier which, on the tour, you can not go on ice.
I did not have the luck, because the weather was very bad, even snowing.
It was worth getting to know, but it was plenty of time to drive for very little hike.
For those who have seen others like Perito Moreno, it is not worth it, but as I say it is always better to see by yours own eyes.
Time to go back to Huaraz and home.
